How to sew a Jedi Knight costume - Episode 2 (pattern and sewing)

In the first article, you learned a bit about costume organizations and the measurements needed to sew a basic, generic Jedi outfit. In today's article, we'll dive into cutting and sewing the inner tunic itself.

Cutting the patterns

Transfer your pattern (tailored or custom) onto parchment paper. Remember that patterns are made "in half". You always work on one half of the design. You then transfer this to folded fabric. This ensures that after cutting and unfolding, both halves are identical.

If using a commercial pattern, measure yourself or the person you're sewing for, and check the size chart to find your size. Then, trace it onto the parchment paper.

If you made your own pattern, ideally draw it directly onto the parchment paper.

The back of the tunic is straightforward; don't worry, just cut your pattern out of the parchment paper as is. The front of the tunic, however, needs the aforementioned collar.

How to make the front of the inner tunic?

• 1. Prepare the pattern for the front half. Either draw this half or trace it onto parchment paper folded in half.
• 2. Then, cut out the pattern. Cut straight across the neck area so you don't lose the paper needed for visualizing the collar. Unfold the resulting pattern. It will look like a complete, one-piece part.
• 3. Draw a line at an angle (choose how slanted you want it) from the start of the neckline across half of the pattern, about 10 cm. Then draw a straight line downwards and cut it out.
• 4. You'll be left with a strange-looking piece, but it's exactly what you need.

Cutting the fabric

Place the finished back pattern onto the folded fabric and pin it so it doesn't shift. Cut through both layers, leaving about 1 – 1.5 cm from the edge of the pattern. This material serves as seam allowance.

Cut the back piece 1x.

Cut the front piece 2x (mirrored – for the right and left sides).

You will also need the collar itself, so cut a 1 m long strip of fabric, 12 cm wide (10 cm + 2 cm seam allowance). The standards are quite specific here: the collar on the tunics should be 5 cm wide.

Sewing

Finally, sit down at the sewing machine. Finish the edges of all fabric pieces. Use a zigzag stitch, which every machine has. Once the edges are finished, move on to sewing the seams. Simply fold the fabric around the sleeves, bottom hem, and belly hem inwards (so they aren't visible when worn) and sew with a straight stitch.

Next, sew the individual fabric pieces together. Again, keep in mind which side is the "visible" one and which is hidden, so you don't have to redo it. Sew with a simple straight stitch. Once sewn, the result will look like a vest.

Now take the collar strip and fold it in half along its entire length. Sew the edges together at the bottom. This turns the 100 x 12 cm rectangle into a 100 x 6 cm one.

Attach the bottom sewn edge of the collar to the front flap of the vest and continue along the entire length (over the shoulders, around the neck, to the other side). Pin it in place. Trim any excess and sew.

When you stand the collar up, you'll have a beautiful 5 cm collar around the neck. The inner tunic is finished.

In the next episode, we will assemble the outer tunic. The process will be the same, but we'll be adding sleeves.

List of parts:

1. Preparation
   
2. Pattern and sewing
   
3. Outer tunic
   

author Eva Lassler